The main theme of this article adjust your ATV derailleur is one of the key elements of any bike, maintenance and adjustment are paramount to enjoy a machine that runs silently and all speeds are usable of the best bike us. Almost as old as the ATV itself, the derailleur is nevertheless a component which always poses a problem when it is necessary to this method, but also sometimes to mount it, because of the new standards which appear in recent years, especially at the front.
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– how to adjust a front derailleur
– how to adjust rear derailleur Shimano
– how to adjust rear derailleur on a mountain bike
– how to adjust bike gears front derailleur
– shimano Deore XT rear derailleur adjustment video
– rear derailleur problems
– how to adjust SRAM rear derailleur
– rear derailleur limit screws
We sometimes tend to forget it, since the revolution brought by the transmissions mono plateau in our disciplines, but the double plate is still available in original equipment on some bikes of all mountain and endure. First note that there are different standards: classic (with a collar up or down on the frame), high direct mount (fixed via a single screw on a small plate above the bottom bracket) and the low direct mount (mounted with two screws near the bottom bracket). In addition to this, one must take into account the cable pull configuration: from the top, the bottom or the side. All these parameters are defined in relation to your bike: on each frame, the fixation can be different because of the constraints related to the design (design and where suspension system).
Opposite, high direct mount derailleur. You can see on the left the tightening screw of the cable, on the right the two stop screws: L for the small plate and H for the big one.
Installation and settings
For the collar versions, it is necessary to mount the derailleur with the yoke parallel to the large bottom plate (for other standards, this setting does not exist). Then there are four steps:
– Adjust the height (collar version and hight direct mount only): this is the distance between the top of the tooth of the largest plateau and the yoke when it is placed vertically. Make sure this distance is between one and two millimeters.
– Adjust the stops (all types of derailleurs): here, we control the lateral movement of the derailleur. You have two screws, one marked L for the small tray and one marked H for the big one. On the lower part (small plate), it is necessary to screw or unscrew the screw L, so as to obtain a margin of 1.5 mm between the outer edge of the small plate and the inner edge of the derailleur clevis. Repeat the process with screw H for the same distance of 1.5 mm between the outer edge of the large plate and the outer edge of the derailleur clevis. Once done, check that the chain does not touch the clevis when you are on the small tray and large opinion of the cassette, or large tray and small pinion. If the chain rubs, slightly loosen screw L (whether small or large).
– Put in place the cable: lower the speeds via the shifter, so as to be on the small plate (cable relaxed to the maximum so). Then move the cable tensioner, the clamping system that receives the sheath (and therefore the cable) at the shifter. The best is to screw or unscrew the cable tensioner so that it reaches halfway, this will have a sufficient adjustment range in both directions. Finally, it is necessary to stretch the cable before tightening it to connect it to the front derailleur.
– Adjust the cable tension: this is sometimes necessary to refine the adjustment and thus facilitate the transition from one tray to another. It is necessary to play on the system of clamping which one just spoke, which is at the level of the shifter: if you have difficulty to go down on the small plate, it is necessary to relax the cable (for reminder, it means to screw the tensioner in the joystick), on the other hand, extend the cable if you have trouble getting back on the big plateau.
Generally, you will find the same type of mounting: a tab attached to the frame on which is screwed the derailleur. Of course, you need the exception that proves the rule: some brands of frames use specific legs for Shimano derailleurs. In these cases, remove the Shimano derailleur hanger and attach it directly to the frame.
– First adjustment, that of the stops. Here, the reason adjust your ATV derailleur is the opposite of what we saw for the front derailleur: the screw H is used to adjust the stop at the small pinion, the screw L is therefore for the big one. To remember, H meets High Speed and Lat Low Speed. The purpose of the maneuver with the stop H is to let the derailleur go down enough that the center of the teeth of the roller (or median line of it) falls on the outer face of the small pinion. For the stop L, it is necessary that the median line of the roller falls in front of that of the large pinion.
On the left, as on the front derailleurs, we find the two stop adjustment screws, the clamping screw of the cable but also the engobe screw, located at the top left. Learn more- What is the chain suck and what causes it?
– To tighten the cable, as for the front derailleur, lower the speeds via the shifter control to reach the level of the small pinion. The cable tensioner is again positioned halfway, for the same reasons. It is necessary to tighten the cable after having adjusted the stop H, but be careful, because at Shimano it is necessary to stretch the cable to the max before tightening it, whereas at Sram it is only necessary to put it in position. Then adjust the stop L.
– The rear derailleur has a screw engobé, also called paw stop screw, which comes to rest on the derailleur hanger (or on the leg Shadow at Shimano). This screw adjusts the gap between the top roller and the sprockets. This distance may vary depending on the type of derailleur and especially if it is 10, 11 or 12 speeds, but the goal of the game remains the same: on the large pinion, the roller must be close enough to the pinion without touching it. It must be able to guide the chain through changes of speed, without hindering if it is too close … This setting necessarily requires having the chain in place. It’s up to you to judge, if possible because it’s a fine adjustment.
– Finally, as for the front derailleur form best bike us, it is necessary to adjust the tension of the cable via the shifter: hold back if the speeds go up badly, release if they go down badly.
The maintenance is fairly basic for front derailleurs: if they creak or have trouble navigating, drop a light drop of fluid oil on each joint. This should be enough to fix everything.
In the back, there is a little more work in anticipation as the room is constantly solicited. Firstly, check the tightness on the derailleur hanger, as this affects the smooth passage of gears. As a bonus, this will prevent the derailleur from finishing its race on the shelves.
Another point to watch for the most fluid operation possible: the cleanliness of the whole and in particular pebbles. To clean them better, I use a small flat screwdriver, I apply against the roller and pedal back. The operation to be repeated on each side of the roller. Finally, drag a small drop of oil on the axes of the rollers will not hurt, because if they go wrong, your shifts will be directly disturbed. Take the opportunity to check their tightness.
From now on, you have no excuse for not having a fluid and straight gearshift, one of the most enjoyable things that can be, especially when you find yourself burnt in a climb, with the last year that does not do not want to pass …