Mountain bike buying advice- Every man has known must be buying guide buy a Mountain bike-
Detailed information about the buying advice of mountain bike has been discussed. If you’re looking for a new mountain bike and best bike us you do not have a clear plan in which direction to go, you’re looking for a lengthy search. Should it be a fully or a Hardtail? Which wheel size should I choose?
Which frame material is the best for my money? Or should it be a Fat bike? Questions about questions that sooner or later make you doubt that, given the countless brands, models, and equipment variants, it is even possible to find the right bike.
But do not worry, your dream bike is out there, and we’ll help you find it. With our mountain bike buying advice we give you helpful tips and explanations so that you do not lose track of the whole category and technical terms and in the end knows exactly which mountain bike types are suitable for you and which model is best suited for your budget.
Type question: Hardtail, Fully, Fat bike, Rigid?
Mountain biking is not the same as mountain biking. Although the fat bike and the full suspension MTB (Fully) are both parts of the mountain bike category, the intended purpose, the equipment, and the driving experience are in some cases completely different. Modern mountain bikes are specially tailored to a specific terrain profile and the riding style of the driver, i.e. where and especially how to ride the bike. Some MTBs have a generous travel at the front and rear to avoid problems in difficult terrain, while others have no cushioning to improve the stiffness and weight of the frame, making them even faster on the trail. Others have less travel or just a front fork to provide the right balance of speed and suspension comfort.
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The intended use also changes the geometry of the frame. For example, the steering angle changes depending on whether the focus is on agile handling or high stability. For the latter, a shallow steering angle below 68 ° is required, whereas a steep angle between 69 and 71 ° gives a more direct, aggressive driving feel.
The basic typology of the mountain bikes depends on the design of the frame and determines the direction, which use is possible with this bike. We explain the basic differences between the four types.
Full suspension / Fully Mountain bike
As the name implies, fully use suspension on both the front and rear wheels. The spring travel describes which path can be covered by the damping to compensate for bumps and absorb shock to the chassis and thus to improve traction and control. The rule of thumb is: The rougher the terrain, the more suspension travel to keep the wheels on the ground for optimal grip. Typically, the suspension travel on mountain bikes from 80mm to 210mm (front and rear).
A practical example: Downhill bikes have been designed to drive steep, technically challenging tracks as fast as possible, and have therefore been given maximum travel beyond the 200mm to provide the necessary traction. At the other end of the spectrum are the cross-country bikes, whose frames must be as light and efficient as possible, and therefore designed to travel 100mm. A useful feature here is the lock-out system, with the help of which the damping can be deactivated in order to obtain maximum advancement on ascents or even, straight stretches and not to lose any force due to the suspension.
In short: damping systems
The front suspension or damping is housed in MTBs in the fork (suspension fork). It works via a “spring” that expands after being crushed by a blow along the way. This spring can be either air, steel or a combination of both. The air suspension is light and can be precisely adjusted and adjusted via a damper pump, while steel springs are used more on cheaper mountain bikes or downhill bikes with high travel. In addition, they are extremely durable and robust and convince by a finer response than air springs.
The rear suspension is realized in various forms depending on the manufacturer and technology. The aim is always to ensure not only the absorption of shock but also the drive neutrality, that is, to isolate or minimize the force effects of the brake and the bottom bracket of the rear damper. We will introduce you to the different types of best bike us:
- Steering wheel: here, the rear part of the mountain bike, the rear triangle, is connected to the main frame with a joint and rotates during compression around a central bearing, approximately at the level of the middle chainring. Advantages: Sensitive response, disadvantage: drive influences, low rigidity
- Multi-link: The multi-link is the rear link with four bearing points connected to the mainframe, the operation is still similar to the Einelenkers. The joints above the chainstay stabilize and control the damper. Advantage: Higher rigidity and drive neutrality, disadvantage: Maintenance-intensive
- Four-link: The four-bar linker is at first glance similar to the multi-link, but allows through an additional pivot point in the chainstay that the rear wheel can spring almost vertically upwards. Advantage: The additional bearing makes the system stiffer and drive-neutral, disadvantage: also maintenance-intensive and expensive
- Virtual Pivot Point System: The VPP system relies on a virtual pivot around which the rear triangle rotates. This is made possible by two joints behind the bottom bracket axle. Two more joints control the damper. Advantage: no pedaling, high drive neutrality, disadvantages: pedal kickback
Hardtail mountain bike
Even with the hardtail, the name is a program. Here, the suspension is the only front, the rear end remains unsprung (“hardtail”). Since a hardtail requires less moving components due to the lack of damper, it is usually lighter, less expensive and less expensive than a full. As with the full suspension MTB, the damper in the suspension fork can be locked with a lockout system on modern hardtails, so that the bike no longer bounces at any point.
Thanks to their low weight and high stiffness, hardtails are made for cross-country riders who focus on speed and agility. On difficult trails, however, the only front suspension mountain bikes do hard. Nevertheless, the front fork allows sufficient comfort and traction depending on the travel (usually between 80mm and 140mm), in order to let off steam in the terrain.
Rigid mountain bike (rigid fork mountain bike)
Mountain bikes without suspension are referred to as rigid or rigid fork MTBs. Due to the lack of dampers, the Rigid Bike is only suitable for light, less demanding trails, as traction and ride comfort depend mainly on the tires. In contrast, a rigid bike is lighter and cheaper than a hardtail or fully. In addition, the maintenance of the movable damper parts is eliminated. Purists still swear by the incomparable driving experience of a rigid mountain bike, but in the modern mountain bike sector and it is a great source of best bike us, the rigid fork MTB only plays a minor role.
Fat bikes represent a further development of hardtails or rigid mountain bikes (with a rigid fork) and are designed for surfaces such as snow and sand, but also look good in normal terrain thanks to their wide 4 “to 4.8” tires. The wheels often reach a diameter of about 30 “, which is why over-wide rims up to 100mm are needed. The frame is based on the large wheels on 29er MTBs and is equipped with extra strong forks, cranks, and hubs.
Riding Styles: Find the right riding style for you
As already described, mountain biking is not the same as mountain biking, especially when it comes to the various off-road disciplines. For cross-country racing fast, extremely light MTBs are essential, while for enduro sports a high travel and a lower able seat post is good form.
In order to get a better insight into the typology of mountain bikes and to find out which MTB was developed for which discipline, we present an overview of the most popular riding styles.
Cross-Country is the original form of mountain biking and describes biking on naturally shaped or artificially created trails. There is no preferred terrain; Forest trails, gravel roads or root carpets are all welcome. Obstacles on the trail are either nature-themed or artificially created to make the track even more fun and challenging.
The abbreviation XC, which can be found on many special cross-country bikes (for example, as XC-Geometry), also refers to the different race types of the sport: XCM stands for cross-country marathon, in which ranges from 50 to be driven over 150 kilometers in length. XCO describes cross-country Olympic races where you have to complete very technical circuits in a fixed time of usually 1-2 hours.
For cross-country rides, basically, every type of mountain bike is suitable. While hardtails are more suitable for fast, flowy trails with few obstacles, technically demanding tracks are more suitable for a full suspension that has 100mm-120mm travel at the front and rear for improved traction and control on tricky trails. Since cross-country routes usually run quite flat, you must always pedal properly, which is why a lighter, more efficient powertrain is beneficial. One of the most important factors in the geometry of the mountain bike is the steering angle in cross-country. Pure cross-country race bikes have a steeper steering angle for more aggressive, faster handling.
Also for the pure trail pleasure, but less about best times is the trail riding. The trail is, like cross-country, the epitome of mountain biking, but is geared towards more experienced riders and more challenging tracks.
The typical trail bike is therefore also equipped with more travel than the cross-country bike and should find the perfect balance between high power efficiency uphill and agile driving downhill. Trail bikes can therefore also without problem in cross-country races at the start, although they have to take due to their higher weight deficits in the speed, especially uphill.
The travel on Trail Bikes is usually between 120mm and 140mm front and rear. Some manufacturers also have trail hardtails in the program, which are also suitable for tougher terrain thanks to a stronger fork and compensate for the lack of rear damping with wider tires. As impeller size is set in most of the manufacturers in this category on the 27.5 “and 29” wheels, more and more often in Plus version. The steering angle is flatter compared to light cross-country racers, typically between 67 and 69 degrees, for increased stability and control downhill.
Enduro / All Mountain
Enduro is a rather young, unique form of mountain biking that stops downhill in a race, but not the uphill sectors. For these, there is often only a maximum time limit, which must be adhered to. A race wins the one who can drive out the best time of all downhill sections. The new MTB trend sport is aimed more at experienced bikers who have no problems with demanding jumps, deep drops, and technical trails.
Enduro bikes are even more focused on the downhill area than trail bikes but still perform well on the mountain compared to pure downhill bikes. The suspension travel should be between 140mm and 170mm for Enduro races, a Fully is compulsory. A lowerable seatpost for better downhill control is just as recommended as wider 2.3-inch tires. The steering angle is again a bit flatter than the trail bike.
Downhill / Gravity
For the adrenaline junkies among the MTB fans, there is the Downhill and Gravity Group. This is all about the ride downhill. The riders get up the mountain either by lift or even on foot. The goal: to get back down the mountain as fast as possible, over drops and jumps, rockeries, ramps and other obstacles.
A downhill MTB should be trimmed only to the downhill performance and be equipped with a travel of at least 170mm up to 210mm. A longer wheelbase and wider tires (up to 2.5 “) provide stability while large, powerful disc brakes quickly bring the bike to a halt. The number of gaits is usually limited to 7, as no longer needed. The wheel size is either 26 “or increased in modern downhillers 27.5”. The steering angle is now around 62-65 ° for maximum stability and control.
Impeller sizes: Large, larger, wider
There are three wheel sizes on modern mountain bikes, which are also available in plus sizes depending on the application: 26 “, 27.5” and 29 “. The size in inches indicates the diameter of the wheels.
26 “was originally the standard size for mountain bike wheels, but is hardly used today on modern mountain bikes. The advantages are the high agility and the low weight, but traction and ride comfort are noticeably better with the larger wheels. 27.5 “, often referred to as 650B, is virtually the successor of the 26 Zoller and offers a better roll-over, more traction and higher air volume than the smaller predecessor. The 29 “size offers even greater ride comfort and even more grip. However, the wheels are also heavier, not so stiff and not as agile as the 27.5 “wheels. In addition, high spring travel due to the high wheel diameter are often not feasible. The 29er size is therefore popular with cross-country MTBs and trail bikes, Enduro bikes are also increasingly equipped with the larger wheels. The 27.5-size, however, is represented in all disciplines and scores with the low weight and high agility.
Then there are the plus sizes. Also hit the market only a few years ago, the enlarged wheel sizes to bring even more traction and ride comfort. The width of the wheels is between 2.8 “and 3” for each wheel size (26, 27.5 and 29 “). Due to the wider tires, the diameter of the best bike us wheel size 27.5+ comes close to a 29 “wheel.
Price question: Find the right MTB for your budget
No matter if beginner or prospective professional – the money is scarce with many, and not everyone can lie down six or seven notes for an MTB. Nevertheless, even when buying a mountain bike, quality always has its price. Although there are mountain bikes in the relevant supermarkets and hardware stores for around 200 euros, in some cases full-suspension, the workmanship often leaves much to be desired.
The price range is also huge in the high-quality MTBs of established brands and ranges easily from € 300 to over € 12,000 for a bike with all the bells and whistles. Regardless, however, there is a reasonable bike for everyone in this area, which meets its requirements. Those who invest more usually get a bike with less weight, better damping components, better shifting quality, longer durability and more comfort. The material of the frame changes from steel or aluminum to high-quality carbon, while switching groups are also getting lighter and higher quality. The wheels are another price point, which is crucial for the quality and the price. In addition, a fully is always more expensive than a comparably equipped hardtail, as it has additional parts and is more expensive in production.
Up to 400 €
Who has a budget of a maximum of 400 euros, gets for most brands a solid entry-level hardtail, but rather for the sporty leisure use is intended rather than for regular biking on the trail. Maximum light, well-maintained trails with virtually no obstacles are recommended for these bikes. For fast, demanding trails, the robust bikes made of steel or aluminum often lack the appropriate equipment. Rim brakes or disc brakes are still available for many manufacturers to choose from without discounts (if it is still in the budget), as they offer better braking performance, especially in wet conditions. Impellers and shifting components are sturdy and solid, but heavy.
On Fully at the new price you can do without confidently in this price range, because passable damping systems are too expensive to incorporate into a high-quality bike in this price range.
400 to 750 €
Beginners, who also want to make the trail primarily unsafe, find up to 750 ¬ rather the right vehicle for the first tours. Although hardtails are still the tool of choice here, hydraulic disc brakes, a lighter aluminum frame, shifting components with up to 24 gears, and coarser tires with a better profile guarantee a fun trail visit. Fully will be interesting in the next higher price category.
750 to 1,500 €
Anyone who flirts with a full suspension now finally gets their money’s worth. Starting at € 1,000 are entry-level models from many top brands to have. However, for the rear damper, you’ll have to sacrifice some of the components when compared to a hardtail for the same price. So it depends on your personal preferences: the fully for harder trails with more comfort or the better-equipped Hardtail for more speed and reliability. Hydraulic disc brakes and a lightweight aluminum frame are available in both types. Tubeless tires for better puncture protection is rarely an option in this category, but anyone looking for a trek bike will get tubeless-ready rims as standard.
In this price category, there is also the question thru axle or quick release for the hubs. Thru axles usually offer increased rigidity and better steering behavior and can be found at the upper end of this price range or more.
1,500 to 2,500 €
In this price range, almost everything is possible as far as the equipment is concerned. Vario seat posts, which drive downwards at the push of a button and thus offer more freedom for the body on the descent, can be found here as well as single-drives with only one chainring and lightweight carbon frames. In addition, at the latest in this area, the bikes can clearly be classified in a discipline, which in turn means for the buyer that he should know exactly which riding style he or she prefers.
Carbon frame hardtails are the best choice for aspiring cross-country bikers thanks to their light weight and good responsiveness. If you prefer a pure trail fully, you often have to resort to an aluminum frame here. The 1-speed drive is a must, especially for fast, race-oriented bikers, as the shifting process with only one chainring at the front facilitates and the weight is reduced. It also leaves more room for optimized frame geometry, more tire clearance, and shorter chainstays to get more agility out of the bike.
2,500 to 4,000 €
Now there are already in many MTB disciplines to get hold of the first complete packages. Lightweight frame, often made of carbon, high-quality attachments, tubeless-ready rims, Vario seat post, hydraulic disc brakes, thru-axle system and efficient drive components from SRAM and Shimano are actually best bike us mandatory here. The damping systems are extremely sophisticated and offer a sensitive response with high drive neutrality.
From 4,000 €
Now it goes into the high-end area, where you pay extra for each saved gram on the frame or the components. Electric circuits such as the XT Di2 or XTR Di2, carbon wheels and high-quality dampers such as the RS-1 Upside-Down fork by RockShox are coveted incentive points for ambitious riders and are at the top of the list in this price range.
Frame material: aluminum, carbon, steel or titanium?
As one could already see in the individual price categories, a high-quality frame material is always a question of price. While mountain bikes for beginners rely on steel or aluminum, cross-country professionals are exclusively on carbon frames. The differences are mainly in weight, ride comfort, stiffness and the driving experience.
Aluminum is still the most popular material for mountain bikes, closely followed by carbon. Both materials have approximately the same properties and are used to develop stiff and lightweight frames. However, aluminum is a bit heavier in comparison, but easier to handle, which explains the lower cost. The power transmission is better with the aluminum frame because the material has a higher rigidity and the aluminum tubes are wider. Of course, this leads to a very hard ride on the other side, if no damping elements are installed. To reinforce aluminum frames, the “butting” method is used. This is a process that reduces the wall thickness of each pipe up to a single, double, or triple point. which are not so crucial for the stiffness. So weight can be saved without loss of stiffness. The aluminum frame is the best choice for those who are looking for performance with a good price-performance ratio.
Frame made of carbon fibers were formerly the absolute elite reserved, but today are available in lower price segments. The carbon fibers can be easily and cleanly processed and formed by their directional structure so that developers can experiment with different pipe diameters. No other material can achieve such a good stiffness to weight ratio as a good carbon frame. A major disadvantage of the carbon material is not only the higher costs but also the fragility of the material. In contrast to the robust aluminum, there is the danger that the frame will crack during the fall or only when over-tightening screws, as a result of which the whole integrity will flute and the frame will virtually no longer be usable. A repair or replacement is the result. Also expensive: to find out after a violent fall,
Steel is still used occasionally in entry-level racing bikes but otherwise is almost impossible to find on higher-priced bikes due to its high weight. However, the cheap material is very robust and thus perfect for the first steps with the mountain bike. On the other side of the spectrum is the titanium frame, which, due to its very high cost, is also rarely used. The lightweight material is extremely durable and does not corrode like steel, but is incredibly difficult and expensive to machine, which makes the frames so expensive. In the case of a fall, it is practically indestructible.
Derailleur: The game of chainrings, pinions & Co.
The rear derailleur is virtually the engine of the mountain bike and consists of crankset, chainrings, chain, cassette, rear derailleur and shift lever together. The drive is a closed system that drives the wheel, and the more money you invest in the quality of the drive, the more efficient, durable, and faster you can shift, and the weight keeps dropping. Beginner mountain bikes tend to rely on relatively heavy, simple gears, while high-end carbon components and electrical systems are used. The circuit used depends not only on the riding style and, of course, the price range, but also on the condition of the frame and the wheel size.
The crankset is available with one, two or three chainrings. A triple crank usually has a generous 44/34/24 or 42/32/22 gear ratio but also results in a large number of intersecting gears and high maintenance intensity due to the many moving parts. While the triple drive is often still used in mountain bikes for beginners, otherwise double cranks are standard. The gear ratio is similar to the triple crank, but lighter, lower maintenance and more efficient. The latest trend is the single-drive, which relies only on a chainring. A derailleur is no longer necessary, which saves additional weight.
The brake group also includes the brake, which ranges from rim brakes and mechanical disc brakes (entry level) to hydraulic disc brakes for MTBs. Hydraulic disc brakes are the measure of things and impress with their low weight, high reliability, low maintenance and maximum braking force. If you get more knowledge best bike us broadcasting for you and details for a cycling-
Switching groups in comparison: Shimano vs… SRAM
Shimano and SRAM are the two heavyweights on the market when it comes to the MTB control center. We give you an overview of the different groups of manufacturers.
- The tourney, Altus, Acera: The beginner groups of Shimano are often found on children’s mountain bikes or MTBs under € 400. For first trail explorations passable, but rather recommended for an allrounder. All groups usually come with triple crank and cassette with up to 9 courses.
- Alivio: Another low-budget group, but already offers hydraulic disc brakes and various Kurbeloptionen. The group is primarily used for hardtails but is also occasionally used in fulls.
- Deore: What the Shimano Tiagra is to road bikes is the Deore for MTBs: the first step towards proper mountain biking. Despite its reputation as a beginner group, the Deore already meets all the requirements of a solid MTB switching group and borrows all sorts of features from the high-end sector. With a 9 or 10 cassette and a double or triple crank, there are enough switching options for every application. The better brake of the group makes something. For many hobbyists, the Deore is the best choice in terms of price/performance and a group that you do not need to upgrade so quickly.
- SLX: Equipped with the same features as the top group XT, the SLX is a good alternative for price-conscious bikers. Slightly heavier weight, less high-quality materials and a barely noticeable slower gearshift on paper are the downsides of the SLX, but the group’s high functionality and reliability make it a good all-round solution for all types of trails. The SLX is available in 10 or 11 gears and has recently been available in a 1x version, which can be found on many 2017 MTBs.
- XT, XTR, and Di2: After the SLX come to the high-performance groups for your mountain bike. Starting with the XT made of high-quality aluminum, there is now also an electronic XT Di2 circuit, which is not so susceptible to dirt and thanks to intelligent features like Syncro-Shift even automatically switches. The premium MTB Group XTR also comes in electronic equipment. The XTR is a bit lighter than the XT and represents the top model of Shimano dar. The electric Di2 is a bit heavier than the mechanical variant, but puinktet by its intelligent features.
- Zee, Saint: The downhill groups of Shimano. The Zee is the cheaper entry-level variant of the top group Saint dar. With the usual disadvantages such as higher weight and inferior materials, it is the standard on the cheaper downhill bikes. The Zee and Saint are only available with a single drive since a larger range of translation on downhill bikes are not necessary.
Like racing bikes, Shimano mountain bike combinations can be combined with each other as long as the components are designed for the same number of gears. An SLX-XT combination is perhaps the most common feature of modern mountain bikes.
SRAM, in contrast to Shimano, has a clear distinction between single drives and the double or triple cranks. SRAM was also the pioneer of the dual-crank and the leader in the introduction of 1x drives, which the company claims are the only true option for mountain bikers.
- X5, X7: The entry-level SRAM range goes directly to 10-speed and 2-speed to triple-crank and is often found on lower-end hardtails. The X5 convinces with different chainring options and a large transmission spectrum. The X7 can already be found on the first full, offering some features of the high-tech groups, but with lower-priced materials and higher weight. The X7 uses the same chainrings as the X5 but relies on the same derailleur mechanics as the X0 and X9.
- X9: The X9 from SRAM puts us on about the same level as Shimano’s SLX – a reliable, high-quality group with all sorts of high-performance features.
- NX, GX: The newest SRAM groups for demanding hobby bikers: The NX is the entry-level version of SRAM’s 1x drives, with only one chainring doing the job. Compatible with all other SRAM 1x drives, the NX offers an 11-42-tooth ratio range in the 11-speed version, which, along with the four chainring options, provides a wide range of ratios. The GX is the standard in the middle price range on many current mountain bikes with SRAM equipment and is extremely versatile. In addition to a 1x version with seven gears for downhill bikes, there are also 1×11, 2×10 and 2×11 variants, which covers the GX all areas of cross-country over enduro down to just downhill.
- X1: The X1 is a single-drive, which can compete in terms of performance with the professional groups X01 and XX1. Despite the aluminum construction, the X1 is about as heavy as high-quality dual-drive carbon fiber because it requires fewer parts.
- X01, XX1: Similar to the XT Group, the X01 is the entry into the professional world: High-quality carbon components wherever you look to make the X01 particularly light and reliable. The 11-speed version allows smooth shifting and is extremely robust. The single drive is also available as a downhill version and offers fewer gears and an even more robust design with the X01-DH. The XX1 is the cross-country variant of the X01 and one more tick lighter and more efficient. Also available with SRAM’s in-house Grip-Shift technology, a twist grip for shifting.
- Eagle: The all-new SRAM Eagle is the new benchmark for mountain bike groups, delivering unmatched performance, ruggedness, and reliability. The 1x drivetrain comes with 12 gears and with its high gear ratio is supposed to put loose double gears into the bag. For the monstrous 50cc rear sprocket, crank, cassette, rear derailleur, chain, and chainrings have been completely redesigned to produce less friction, better grip, and more efficient operation. The Eagle is available as an X01 version for trail and enduro bikes as well as an XX1 option for cross-country and marathon racers. The XX1 weighs just 1,456 grams, the X01 1,502 grams. Both circuits come with the 10-50T cassette and different chainring sizes.
- EX1: SRAM has not forgotten the growing e-mountain bike community and offers with the EX1 a specific E-MTB group with moderate gear ratio, 8 gears and 1x crank.
Mountain bike frame height: Find the right size
The right frame height for mountain bikes is enormously important. Only when the bike fits like a glove does it offer maximum ride comfort and a coordinated ride. If the bike is too big or too small, you will not be able to use the optimized frame geometry to your advantage and will lose speed and handling. Since you can not save much with the saddle height or handlebar alignment.
The mountain bike frame height is typically specified as the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to the end of the seat tube (A). However, each manufacturer assigns sizes S, M or L to other sizes. An M frame for manufacturer A may be an S frame for manufacturer B. Such size specifications also differ manufacturer-internally depending on the bike type, so it is actually mandatory to inform yourself about the exact geometry numbers. As a universally applicable size specification for all MTB types, the top tube length offers (B).
Other key figures are the stack (height of the bike, starting from the bottom bracket to the head tube, G) and reach (length of the bike from the bottom bracket to the head tube, C). If you determine the values that suit you for these two qualities, you will always be able to find the right frame height, regardless of bike type and manufacturer. The seat tube length (A) is usually the easiest way to determine the frame height and depends on the step size of the driver, but is not really helpful in downhill or dirt jump bikes, since the seating position is lower than normal mountain bikes.
Mountain bike buying tips: make a test drive, look for offers
A test drive purchase is just like the car duty when buying a mountain bike. For a beginner bike, it’s sure to take a few laps around the block to get a feel for the bike, while a high-end mountain bike for the price of several months’ salaries should also be tested over a weekend. Always be aware of the purpose for which you want to use your new mountain bike and then test it out. Do not be fooled by the appearance or the denounced features and find out based on the driving characteristics, whether the MTB really suits you.
To get a bit closer to your dream bike, you should inform yourself in detail. Create a list of your top 5 bikes in your price range and go hunting for more information on YouTube, test portals, blogs or in MTB magazines-