Bike review – When is the best time to bike gear review?

bike gear review

When using your bike regularly, it is best to do the inspection several times a year. The absolute minimum for a bicycle used even to a small extent, however, We should be bike gear review once every year because it’s good for everyone.

We definitely recommend a review at the end of the season. This is the best time for several reasons:

  • The time for providing the service is much shorter than at the beginning of the season or the more during the bicycle season
  • The bike is preserved before winter, which prevents corrosion, which after wet autumn attacks bikes with double force
  • We can start a new all season bicycle when we want to, and not when we can return the bike to service and recover it
  • In the winter months, we often announce various promotions and reductions not only for service but also for many parts – so you have the perfect opportunity to buy good equipment at a great price
  • In the off-season, we enable an overall review, i.e. dismantling the bike almost to the last screw and a comprehensive check or replacement of each part finder bike. During the bike care in the rainy season, it is simply impossible because of the amount of work our service technicians have to do.

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Bike review: prepare annual bicycle maintenance for the new season! A home inspection of a bicycle after winter is a must. See how to do it

Prepare a bike for the new season. Spring behind the belt. The next weeks of good weather are ahead of us. It’s time to take out a dusty crophopper bike from the basement, attic or garage. After winter the bike is not ready for action right away. It is worth devoting one afternoon to a comprehensive advantage of cycling everyday, to make sure that the bike ride will be pleasantly safe.

Preparation bike for the new season does not have to be difficult. It usually relies on a few important sub-points that you have to tick off. Below we present the home review of the bike in 6 steps. Meanwhile, preparations for the bicycle season also involve pulling out accessories. Many cyclists cannot imagine driving without special gloves. Long-distance cyclists also need suitable, breathable clothing. From the winter lethargy, we also pull out the gripper for the phone and water bottle, spare light, a portable pump and a small pannier for longer rides.

City bike – a social initiative

In many places, the idea of city bikes near me was implemented. Sometimes this is the bike ideas of a city or municipality, another time a social initiative financed, for example, from a civic bike budget. Stations located in distant districts of the city make it easy and pleasant to drive from point A to point B. By renting a bike you do not have to worry about working brakes, falling chains or under-inflated inner tubes. Managing bikes take care of them specialists who efficiently eliminate the reported defects. A city bicycle budget cyclocross bike gear review is an idea for a nice Saturday afternoon spent with family and friends.


Home bike review sites in 5 steps

1- Dust, muddy dirt

If the last trip at the end of season bike clearance was good then after winter you will definitely notice this evidence. Dust, dirt, and mud are the best souvenirs after a good bicycle season. If you have access to running water, for example, a garden hose, you just need to pour the bike and wait 10 minutes for all impurities to soften and to be easier to wash. We remove dirt with a simple cloth soaked in warm water and dishwashing liquid. If you are worried that dishwashing liquid will damage the surface, use a car wash shampoo. By carrying out the action of washing the bike in the apartment, take advantage of the bathtub or a large shower cubicle, or use the balcony.

2- Inner tubes

Drained air is most likely the first fault you will notice after winter storage of your bike in the basement, in the attic or in the garage. There is no guiding principle that determines how the tube should be pumped. Most often we bump “by eye”. If you go on asphalt bike paths, the circle should be harder if you go for green paths, forest paths – soft, for better cushioning and “damping” inequalities. We never pump inner tubes at 100%, to the resistance, because it can have bad effects. In addition to the inner tube, we also check the tread tires. The bicycle tires and inner tubes, like car tires, should have visible treads, which allows proper adhesion of the ground. If the inner tubes or tires are damaged, replace them for a better model in the nearest bicycle workshop.

3- Brakes

It is quite an important bicycle element in the bicycle system. Unskilled brakes can cause accidents and injuries. So make sure that everything gets back to normal after winter. Tighten the cables in the jaw brakes, check the surface of the brake pads. It will be more troublesome to inspect the disc brakes, which, when they are not fully functional, produce unpleasant sounds. In the latter case, it is best to go to specialists.

4- Chain

The chain is also one of the basic mechanisms without which the bike cannot be fully functional. The bike chain must be clean and well lubricated. The chain should be removed for cleaning, but if you do not like to get your hands dirty or do more work than you need, the chain can also be cleaned directly on the bike chain accessories. To properly protect the mechanism, soak a rag in the extraction gas and clean each chain connection thoroughly. To get to hard-to-reach places an old toothbrush will also be useful. After bike chain cleaner spray, lubricate the chain and wipe off the excess grease with a clean cloth.

5- Lights

For proper driving in the dark, the right light is needed. Check if the current is good or you do not need to replace the bike battery ampere. Test the lighting before the first trip, so that there are no surprises. When driving after dark, it’s also worth having flares with you.

6- Saddle

During winter road bike disc brakes, when the bike was lying among other, currently unnecessary lumber, check it out. The best solution will be unscrewing and screwing it again, adjusting to your height.


Season- Spring

Spring bike overview: how to check a bike before the season?

What to do with the bike that spent the winter in the basement or the storage compartment? Piotr Mitko, the author of the blog suggests how to prepare a spring bike maintenance for spring trips.

Clean, inspect, lubricate, inflate, drive, and if you need to adjust and re-ride – this is what you need to do to start the cycling season well. Thanks to this bike will serve you for many years.

Spring bike gear review of the bike start by cleaning it. Use a soaked sponge or cloth for this. Do not use water under pressure to avoid water-sensitive parts such as hubs, support or rudders. To clean the bike chain belt, the cassette (rear set of gears), the derailleur and the crank you can use gasoline, eg extraction, which you buy in any industrial store, or another agent that dissolves the grease well. Carefully clean the parts that are lubricated inside, such as hubs, rudders (bearings that allow steering wheel rotation) or pedals. The cloth should only be slightly damp so that no permanent grease is rinsed between the moving parts. With another clean cloth, wipe the entire bike, removing dust and dirt.

Cleaning bike chain and gears

It’s best to remove the drive to clean exhaust system ford it thoroughly. Remove the rear wheel and chain without any tools. This will allow you to clean the mud racks using a cloth soaked in gasoline. If you want to do it perfectly, remove the cassette. Immerse it in a container with gasoline, shake it several times and wait for the dirt to dissolve and fall to the bottom. To download the cassette you will need tools: the key to the cassette and the so-called a back which immobilizes the cassette during its unscrewing. Similarly, clean bike chain dish soap: rinse it in petrol. The front sprockets are much easier to access, so you can clean them without removing them.

Damage assessment report

The cleaned drive will work differently. Sometimes worse – sometimes the mud masks to some extent that the system is badly worn. To assess whether the chain is still good, examine the extent of its extraction with a meter that you buy for a dozen or so zlotys, or ask for it in a bicycle service center. You will not pay for it. If you replace the chain before its extension exceeds 1%, you will extend the life of the cassette.

The chain of grooved sprockets stretches and, over time, the teeth become thinner and thinner. Sprockets wear differently because you use some more often. If the teeth on the sprockets clearly differ in shape, the cassette must be replaced with the bike chain adjuster. Again, if you do it early enough, you will save yourself from replacing the crank discs.

Evaluate the brakes and derailleur links. If you do not walk smoothly, you can pour a drop of oil into the armor (external, most often plastic security cables). It can be the same as the bike chain art. If this does not improve their work, they can be rusty or frayed. They are therefore suitable for replacement with armor.

Brake wear gauge

Check the condition of the brake pads. In the jaw brakes, the new blocks have grooves. Thanks to them, you can assess the degree of wear of the brakes. If the grooves have disappeared, the blocks are replaced. If the braking force is too weak, turn the adjusting screw several times at the handle, and if this does not help, pull up the cable with the pliers from the side of the brake. In shield claddings, their minimum thickness is specified by the manufacturer of brake pad wear indicator bmw. If the brakes do not work properly and it is not the fault of worn pads, they need adjustment. The procedure depends on the manufacturer, so it is best to find the instructions for your model online.

Bike lubrication and cleaning

When the cleaned chain dries out of gasoline, lubricate it. Use a bicycle chain and bike pedal lubrication. Nothing else! I do not recommend spray lubricant, because it will not only be on the chain but also everywhere. Apply one drop of oil on each bike cleaning accessories. Wait a moment for the grease to get between the plates and then wipe the chain dry with a clean cloth. The chain should be lubricated in the middle, not outside so that it does not get stuck to the gears, it does not catch dirt and it takes you less time to clean the bike cleaning and maintenance again. Lubricate the chain regularly, never let it squeak. Also allow a few drops of oil between other moving parts: brake hinges, derailleurs, pedal axles.

Pumping air into bike tires

If you have a pump with a pressure gauge, inflate the tire as recommended by the manufacturer the best bike pumps are available best bike us and get more resource. You will find the information on the optimal pressure on the side of the pumping tubeless bike tires. They are given in PSI units. When pumping on the feel, do it quite hard. If you bend the tire with your thumb, it definitely needs to be inflated. If you have inner tubes with car valves, you can go to the gas station and inflate the tires with an automatic compressor. You will find out what hardness is recommended by pumping bike tire with presta valve. The tires damage the passage of time. Take a look at whether the rubber is cracked, cracked or smeared, as further driving on such tires can be dangerous.

Test drive checklist

Finally, check if anything buzzes when you drop the bike from a few centimeters onto the wheels and tighten any slack. If the brakes are working and the wheels are screwed, go for a test ride. Pay attention to any disturbing sound while driving experience york. If shifting is not smooth, the derailleurs must still be adjusted. Here you will find instructions on how to adjust the front and rear derailleur.

In case of problems…

The full bike parts express review also includes checking the shock absorber, rudders, bearings, wheel centering. However, as long as you do not notice any problems with these parts, do not review “forcefully”. In addition, checking these elements requires skill and often special best bike equipment. Therefore, it is better to commission some activities to specialists. It does not cost a lot, and you will save time.

Have a nice ride!


Season- Winter

Winter bike review: one winter week

After many hours spent on the road and finished the season, the bike finally came to a well-deserved rest. He made a lot of joy and unforgettable moments and must be winter beater bike. He was reliable and always ready to go wherever we wanted. We want it to be always so, so it’s time for a “rematch”. It is a winter technical review the best road bike winter apparel.

Before we get to work, we should honestly answer two very important questions is bike winter training:

– which activities I can do myself, which should be better entrusted to the mechanic in the workshop (eg wheel centering, venting of hydraulic brakes, shock absorber service).

– do I have the right tools and spare parts?

Answers to the above questions will greatly simplify the work and make it planned, and thus much more effective. It is worth remembering that in good services the winter traffic gloves is small, but let only the first thaw begin! Everyone will come up with the same idea. Personally, I recommend spreading the work for 7 days. This will allow us to focus better on individual activities is winter bike league athens, and this should not interfere with our daily duties. We start the maintenance on a day off from work.

The first day

We bike wash spray first. It does not take more than 5-10 minutes, because it only aims to get rid of coarse impurities. Then clean: frame bike gear review (let’s devote a little more time), wheel rims, cranks, derailleurs, brakes, the shock absorber (fork), steering wheel with bracket. We do not avoid the seat post or saddle. Then wipe it dry. After the bike is the best high street moisturiser for dry skin, practically its frame is ready for inspection. We’re looking for cracks first of all. We do it first: for satisfaction because we probably will not find any, secondly: for security, because if we find them, we saved our lives or at least teeth. We closely examine the weld joints within the head frame wall and support. We do not ignore snags, deep scratches, and in the case of carbon frames even scratches, which we check with the edge of the nail passing through the surface. When the scratches are felt, we should look more closely at them with the best magnifying glass. In case of any doubts, we place the frame on inspection for a good workshop. Remember: carbon and composites burst from the inside !!!

Day two

We visit our favorite bicycle shop cafe, where we make purchases based on a previously made list. It is also a good time to ask for advice and talk to the store staff about the service we intend to outsource. We take the wheel to the viewer. After removing them from the frame, check the looseness of the hubs, or correct it. When adjustment does not work and we feel resistance to rolling, the hubs should be dismantled, cleaned and smeared. Machine bearings with slack marks are replaced. We check the bike tire belt carefully. After removing them from the rim, we press the front of the treadmill from the top. In this way, we detect any damage and cracks in the tire on its sides.

The outer part of the tire directly in contact with the surface is tested in the same way. Any deeper incision through which the braid/cord is visible, the tire automatically eliminates it. If we are sure that we will not exchange the chain and the cassette, we check the tightening of the cassette ring (special tool needed) and scrupulously clean it. We check the fastening of the brake discs and bike tire beads. We watch hoops, spokes, and nipples. Thoroughly wash the wheels, not forgetting the quick connector, which we cover with a thin layer of grease. We center the wheels if we have planned such an action. We install inner tubes, tires and pump to nominal pressure. We center the wheels if we have planned such an action bike tire clearance. We install inner tubes, tires and pump to nominal pressure. We center the wheels if we have planned such an action *. We install inner tubes, tires and pump to nominal pressure.

*ATTENTION: We never center the wheel when the band is pulled on the spokes! I know of cases when the cracked spoke caused the loss of the eye!

Day third

Time for links and armor. If they have three or more seasons behind them, we exchange them unconditionally. Nothing is able to spoil the humor and joy of driving, like resisting the “clogged” armor of the lines and armour packaging. In the case of brakes, it is also our safety. “Younger” specimens, if they do not show excessive wear and do not function under extreme conditions, we can try to lubricate. Possible folds and folds also end their career. We release a solid amount of aerosol oil into the rapid-fire quick release grips. The same applies to thumpstar road ripper. They will be very grateful for that. Tighten the threads of the cable tensioners to the parking brake handles with a thin layer of grease. They do not like being baked to rotate quickly and probably in case of emergency. We check the fixing of the brakes (v-brakes) to the frame. If the brake arms do not bounce quickly, we pull them off the frame. Then, fine-grained sandpaper, clean the axis of rotation and apply a thin layer of grease to it. We install the brake, check its reflection and replace the brake pads near me if necessary. With hydraulic brakes, we’re looking for brake fluid leaks. You can find them on wires, any connections.

Then we check your brake pads and attach the clamps to the frame. Alternatively, vent the system if we have planned it. The last step is to thoroughly wash the break with a solution of soapy water and how to clean brake caliper pistons. With hydraulic brakes, we’re looking for brake fluid leaks. You can find them on wires, any connections. Then we check the brake pads and attach the clamps to the frame. Alternatively, vent the system if we have planned it. The last step is to thoroughly wash the break with a solution of soapy water. With hydraulic brakes and its advantages of hydraulic brakes, we’re looking for brake fluid leaks. You can find them on wires, any connections. Then we check the brake pads and attach the clamps to the frame. Alternatively, vent the system if we have planned it. The last step is to thoroughly wash the break with a solution of soapy water.

ATTENTION: If our bike is equipped with hydraulic brakes, we will refrain from installing the front brake, because we are still waiting to inspect the controls and possible service of the shock absorber! learn more- physical preparation for our great trip for bike knowledge

Fourth day

We look at the components of the drive: we disassemble the chain and the two gears that we clean thoroughly (many tried-and-tested methods are known, but I personally suggest doing this in a larger vessel with a mixture of hot water with more good quality dishwashing liquid and medium-sized paint brush with hard bristles – healthy, ecological, effective and cheap!). In the rear derailleur, check the bicycle wheel bearings maintenance and looseness on the bolts. In the front derailleur we pay attention to the condition of the guide and possible clearances on the axles of rotation. Excessive play in the rear derailleur suggests the need to replace it. Consider its age, mileage and the conditions and style of our driving. Failure of this element can be very dangerous for the cycling health benefits facts, not to mention the cost of additional repairs.

In the case of a front derailleur, the even more loose play does not necessarily end its life. Before we change it, let’s try to give it another chance (day seven). It consists in mounting it with the smallest possible clearance in relation to the largest bike gear ratios for climbing (1 mm or less), of course, so that the inner guide does not hook on the middle crown. The shift test (only when driving!) Will tell us if it stays with us for the next season. We put a small amount of oil into all pivot points and into the adjustment screw sockets and the big chainring vs small chainring. After degreasing and washing, the chain is subjected to a wear test. You can use special measures, which are easier to use and cheaper, but you can also do it with a standard measuring tape.

We measure the length of 12 links (24 pins), which should be 30.5- 30.8 mm. When the result obtained is greater, the chain is worn and needs to be replaced. The result 31.0 mm and above heralds the need to replace the cassette, and should pay attention to crank bike gear review and oval chainring single speed. Thanks to the easier access, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the racks (when we did it for the last time?) And to assess the condition of wear. Worn lace cranks take on the characteristic shape of a “shark fin”. But beware: modern forward gear systems require such sophisticated teeth that some novelties have a sickle shape.

In this case, used lace from the new ones can be easily distinguished, because the former has an additional “unnatural growth” (pressure of the chain pins) on the side walls of the teeth, which makes them much thicker in the central part. We detect worn bearing bottom brackets by letting them move quickly (without chain). If they make noise or rotate with resistance – we exchange. We do not wait with this action for the last moment, they often “feed” away from civilization and it is impossible to reach it on two wheels. Before installing the parts, again clean the frame (this time exactly), because now we have a much better approach, for example to the support muff or the rear fork.

Note: We do not chain! We wait until the sixth day.

Day five

We dismantle the shock absorber. Depending on the plan, we bring it to the service or we carry out the tuning ourselves (needed: knowledge + tools + time). We check the rudders: treadmill wear, bicycle wheel bearings maintenance – especially the lower one, which works under the highest load and is the most exposed to contamination. We clean the whole, but with the lubrication and replacement of rudder parts, we wait until the sixth day (or the day the shock absorber returns). We pull out the seat post, dismount the saddle, carefully clean its “sleds” – saddle rods and clamp, (a common cause of creaking). After putting on the seat post and the bike seat tube measurement, apply a small amount of grease. This will prevent the seat post from getting caught, as well as the penetration of water and dirt into the frame. In the case of carbon staples, it must be a special paste. (Eg. Fiber Grip) Under no circumstances should bearing grease be used. Its use may cause the carbon seat post to slip, which may cause serious danger.

Day six

In bicycles with double suspension, we control, preferably with a torque wrench * (in case of lack of it, it is worth asking for help from a bicycle service), all connections and fixing the rear shock absorber. We dismantle the bike pedals with toe clips, check their condition, clean them, and before reassembling them put a layer of grease on the threads. Next, we install the rudders, the front shock absorber, the hydraulic front brake and the wheels and chain. If necessary bicycle toe clips vs clipless, replace the handlebar grips (MTB).

* We use the sizes recommended by the frame manufacturer (User guides fill up Google servers). If you need to necessary the best experience of riding the bicycle for the first time

Day seven

adjust the brakes and then the derailleurs. We grease the chain. On the best internal gear hub bikes and in the adjustment screw sockets, apply the oil drop by a drop of a syringe, and collect the excess with a dry cloth. We check the operation of the meter and lighting. In best road bike reviews, we install the steering wheel wrap. In the end, once again check each screw and possibly wax the frame.

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