How to properly adjust suspensions to attack the trails

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Succeed properly adjust suspensions to attack the trails and enjoy the best bike us. You can have the best fork in the world if it is not set you will not move and especially, it’s all the pleasure of riding that will take for his rank…

As for the forks, it is necessary to separate the two sides, right and left. Very often today, we find a spring side (helical or air) and a hydraulic side. The principle is the same on the shock absorbers, except that everything is on the same line on these beasts, the spring part encompassing the hydraulic part.

Adjust suspensions to attack the trails

With regard to the coil springs, the adjustment is rather rough. It is more or less necessary to preload the spring according to your weight (to arrive at the SAG of 30% generally recommended for our practices) and in theory, you can screw the spring on several turns to harden it. In fact, you should not screw more than two turns (three large maximum), otherwise, your suspension will not work.

It is, therefore, necessary to focus on choosing a spring setting adapted to your weight in order to exert minimal prestressing and thus let the suspension operate as freely as possible. How to make SAG? First, you have to find the shock stroke, indicated on the datasheet of your bike. Let’s take a DH, commonly equipped with a damping 240 x 76 mm (the first value is the center distance, the second is the race). It is necessary to calculate 30% of 76 mm, or 23 mm.

Then deduct the 23 mm distance from the shock absorber, ie 240-23 = 217 mm. Here you are, once seated on the bike properly adjust suspensions to attack the trails; your center distance should be 217 mm. If your measurement is greater than 217 mm, find a softer spring, if it is lower, then you need a harder spring. Questions at the back of the class?

For the forks, the spring hardness in relation to the weight of the driver is generally fair enough, so just let yourself be guided. Depending on the preferences and driving style, the SAG varies between 20.5 and 30%. 

Regarding the air springs (which equip the suspensions of almost enduros and DH rather high-end), the setting is much simpler since it is sufficient to put more or less air pressure in the room.So adjusting your SAG becomes child’s play. More and more often, we find on these air springs one of the rings (or token) that can reduce the volume of the air chamber.

Concretely, what is it for? Decreasing the volume will further increase the hardness of the spring when driving the fork or damper. At equal starting pressure, when the suspension enters the deflection, the pressure will increase faster on a small volume of air than a large, so we will increase the end-of-stroke hardness. So, keeping the same SAG, and therefore the same sensitivity, we can have a harder end position that will prevent the suspension to go to the bottom too easily. The best way to the caffeine for performance improvement – What is it?

This keeps a good base and more rigor in the muddy terrain. The assembly of these rings is rather simple, on a fork as on a shock absorber: in the first place, it is necessary to deflate the air chamber entirely (for safety, you can remove the shell in the valve). On the fork in general, this is under the air cap: you must unscrew the nut on that side, and once removed you can screw or cleat the wedges.

On the damper, point G is located on the double jacket of the air chamber, often held in place by an O-ring or circlip. Once this is removed, the tube will slide. The rings are like rubber bands to place around the main bedroom. On the fork in general, this is under the air cap: you must unscrew the nut on that side, and once removed you can screw or cleat the wedges.

On the shock, point G is located on the air chamber double jacket, often held in place by an O-ring or circlip. Once this is removed, the tube will slide. The rings are like rubber bands to place around the main bedroom. On the fork in general, this is under the air cap: you must unscrew the nut on that side, and once removed you can screw or cleat the wedges. On the shock, point G is located on the air chamber double jacket, often held in place by an O-ring or circlip. Once this is removed, the tube will slide. The rings are like rubber bands to place around the main bedroom.

The hydraulic side is a lot more complicated. Settings for compression, relaxation, high and low speed …But no, do not worry, everything is very simple. As for compression, we often have high and low-speed settings. Here, one must understand the speed of the sinking of the stem, not necessarily riding.

The low-speed compression acts during the braking, the support in the banked turns, the movements of the pilot on the bicycle, therefore. So if the bike sags too much when you brake or take a support to best bike us, you must close the setting (you will also hear the term “screw”). Conversely, if the suspensions do not move and you feel discomfort or lack of grip in these situations, just open the setting (“unscrew”, in the opposite direction of the needles of a watch).

When it comes to high-speed compression, it plays on broken sections, such as root fields, scythes or brake holes for example. If on these grounds the bike hits too much (under the feet or the hands), it is necessary to open. On the other hand, if it sags too much, consumes too much deflection and remains anchored in the difficulties, then it is necessary to close a little. Be careful to find the right compromise.

Additional words: search result “adjust suspensions to attack” in this article must be an available resource for your demand-

– how to adjust rear coil suspension on the mountain bike
– how to adjust the front suspension on a mountain bike
– how to adjust rear suspension on a mountain bike
– how to adjust full suspension mountain bike
– RockShox rebound adjustment
– front fork rebound adjustment
– rear shock sag calculator
– MTB suspension setup

 

At the level of the relaxation, there is not going to lie to you, it is really more complex. Some suspensions dissociate the high and the low speed, but on the shock absorbers more often (there are not many forks that dissociate them, apart from Suntour Rux or Durolux). First, let’s take the example of a suspension with a trigger setting, low speed. It is used to adjust the speed at which your suspension returns to its original position after a crash, allowing your wheels to stick to the ground as much as possible.

If your bike dribbles in the succession of shocks, then you have to close the low-speed trigger. On the other hand, if the best bike us lacks vivacity in the supports, or of grip in passages like the slopes, it is necessary to open it. When you have a damper with two settings, high and low speed, the high-speed trigger will manage the return of the piston during the big shocks, when one enters far in the travel, but also the shocks the fastest, the calls and jumps receptions (for the damper).

The low-speed trigger always has the same role, but we must now see these two settings as an association to manage the overall operation of the expansion circuit. You can afford to have a low-speed trigger open enough to have a hyper-responsive bike, but it is necessary to close the high speed not so that your best bike us returns you in all directions as soon as the ground is smashed. We must find the right compromise because letting your high-speed relaxation open enough will allow you to kick into the kicks, if it is too much, you will go into a nosedive. The same thing in reception, if the high speed is too open, it is the snowshoeing assured.

Of course, the most difficult thing is to feel all these settings. To do this, the most important is not to touch everything each time, but to work independently on each setting. It is also necessary to focus on coordinating the front and rear: a back too hard will push the rider on the front, giving the impression of having a front too soft … Finally, if you do not ride in competition, step in the right direction and try to find versatile settings. This will allow you to not have to tamper with the knobs half a day each time you change stations. Conversely, depending on the terrain (very wet or very dry), it is wise to make small adjustments to find grip and comfort. Come on, try, it’ll go by itself!

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